#NYFW Runway Roundup Review: Critiques, Praises, Takeways and Shade

The fall leg of New York Fashion Week has just ended, and TSK’s resident bad boy critic Shelton Boyd is taking shots and giving us candid reviews of all your fav’s favs high-end shows below:

Monse:

I know literally NOTHING about basketball (aside from Basketball Wives, Steph Curry, D Wade, and MJ) but Monse’s S/S 18′ show was a slam dunk (cliche pun was just necessary). We saw the “athlesuire” trend all up and down various runways for the past couple of seasons, but as of late its slowly fizzled out, as all major fashion defined trends tend to do. Like remember when “Normcore” was a thing? and it was reformed into “athlux” (Athletic-luxury). This season, Monse explored collegiate wear and sports uniforms complete with a basketball court venue. There was a Monse sequined logo jersey, a take on a shirt with stitching similar to a baseball, hockey jersey inspired crop top, an elevated take on a track suit and even a deconstructed letterman jacket. Creative directors Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia (also co-creative directors of Oscar de la Renta) have such a keen eye for twisted tailoring and presenting current trendy-ish silhouettes but like in a cool non cliché way.

Takeaway: Athletic/sports inspired wear and Americana.

*Sidenote: I was also very perplexed why the show was held for Nicki Minaj????

Jeremy Scott:

Positive: The casting was incredibly diverse
Negative: As always there’s just WAYYYY too many ideas compacted into one collection.

The highlight of the show was Devon Aoki opening and closing. Yes, Jeremy Scott is known for wacky, playful maximalism, so I mean we often know what to expect going into these collections: always colorful, pop culture references, “it”celebrity models, in demand footwear etc. I mean it’s not my preferred aesthetic but it is an aesthetic and a very necessary one. Jeremy doesn’t appeal to the often stuffy, high fashion world that he’s a part of—yet at the same time he does which is the coolest thing about him. In this collection (which signifies 20 years of the eccentric label), Jeremy referenced himself and his past work. Also we saw the athletic trend we saw at Monse pop up in this collection with a section of football inspired garments and footwear. Jeremy is Jeremy—and though his design aesthetic and sensibility are questionable at times.. he’s an eccentric pillar of fashion and for that you just have to appreciate what it I that he does.

Takeaway: Sports inspired wear and those football shin gladiator sandals I foresee being a thing as well.

VFiles:

Let’s be honest this is more so a party, a social gathering of all the cool kids in tune with the zeitgeist, rather than a fashion show. You never really hear about these designers too much after because this showcase isn’t exactly set up to let the clothes take center stage. It’s a party of cool youth culture and music. The hottest rappers are always there (remember Young Thug getting up to spruce up an Alessandro Trincone look?) and this year was no exception with Offset driving a yellow Lamborghini into the middle of the runway all to enter his front row seat. Dj sets, a Jessie J performance (?) and yellow Lamborghini aside there were some strong looks. I’m obsessed with that JunJie Yang shag coat with flames rising from the hemline (insert flame emoji). I think that the V-Files team needs to re-evaluate the way they show these collections because are the designers really getting the attention they deserve?

Takeaway: Not so much a trend but a lesson for younger upstart designers, LESS IS MORE!

Brandon Maxwell:

(Cries in disappointment). Brandon Maxwell, designer of that immaculate Lady Gaga Oscars white pant suit look, and stylist to the music and fashion pioneer herself had so much potential. Potential to be the next wonderkid of fashion. But sadly with this S/S 18′ collection issa no for me dog (Randy Jackson voice). To quote our TSK editor-in-chief, this collection gives “Real Housewives of New York takes #NYFW”. Maxwell, often a fan of a more minimal color pallet and sophisticated structure, opted for popped collars and boot cut jeans with splashes of green leopard print (like EW!). The collection just seemed so amateur and disjointed. We’ll just forget this collection ever existed Brandon and look forward to your fall collection.

Takeaway: New York & Company meets reality tv star’s reunion look.

Alexander Wang:

Does anybody still pay attention to Alexander Wang’s clothes or just the parties??

Takeaway: Alex dig deep and shift the focus back onto clothes and elevating your design ethos. Oh and deconstruction isn’t really your thing.

Public School:

First, did you peep that Jordan x Public School collab?? EPIC! Dao- Yi & Maxwell Osborne have consistently done a great job at molding their worlds: a street wear inspired aesthetic with elevated high end luxury components. This collection just adds to my statement that athleisure is attempting a massive comeback. It seems like Windbreakers are more fashionable than ever (the windbreaker trend was also seen at Calvin). While I always appreciate Public School for staying true to their ethos, their collections sometimes lack a clear cohesive point of view. Great ideas, put sometimes too many and not perfectly executed. Just like the prior Fall season with the string political theme throughout, this S/S 18′ collection also displayed political undertones with the thread of plastic shopping bags.

Takeaway: Athleisure is making a comeback.

Phillip Plein:

Was it a concert or a fashion show? Teyana Taylor doing splits and dancing up and down the runway (can someone tell me why?), Future performing, Dita Von Teese doing her same tired ass burlesque routine, Rae Sremmurd walking the show.. I’m honestly and truly just tired/confused. I thought the point of a fashion show was to showcase the you know CLOTHES! Like Wang, my problem here is that this is what fashion “shows” have become, glorified concerts and pop culture phenomenons. I don’t want to spend too much time discussing this show but is this 2005? Like graphic tees, stick on tattoos, embellished jeans, glitter patch distressed white jeans. I cannot, I cannot.

Takeaway: Leave the Ed Hardy aesthetic in the 00’s. Oh and stop capitalizing off of black culture (will discuss in further detail about Plein’s cultural appropriation in our TSK diversity report).

Victoria Beckham:

I seriously think that Victoria Beckham has been kidnapped by a Phoebe Philo impersonator! Seriously her design aesthetic resembles Céline more and more each season. But with all that aside, the Posh Spice has done a masterful job at owning a set aesthetic: clean, art gallerist chic workwear (also very similar to Céline’s brand ethos). The clothes are polished, and mature, yet with a cool youthful edge: great suiting, soft minimal color palettes and just look like what every cool “it” fashion girl would want to stock her walk in closet with.

Takeaway: Minimalism will forever be in!!

Tibi:

80’s power dressing, easy basics, pretty lime,lilac and tangerine color palette, the 80’s power suit (that ever fashion girl will be obsessing over), elevated track suits… overall a nice collection.

Tom Ford:

Tom Ford and denim? Tom Ford and body suits? Tom Ford and leather athletic pants? Tom Ford and a denim bra?…. if you’re drawing blanks here too it’s ok don’t be alarmed, you’re just as lost as I am. Tom Ford stands for pure sexy glamour and this just wasn’t that. It was an attempt at being more youthful, trendy and overall very in-cohesive. It’s like he just put together 7 collections in one. There was the denim section(which utterly made no sense to me, like hello Adam Selman called and he wants his denim aesthetic back), the 80’s section with deep plunging bodysuits with leather athletic trousers, these shirts I mean “dresses” that were extremely short, a tin foil shirt and matching trouser set, more leather pants and then there was that god awful cyborg sequined armed dress section. I hate to be disappointed by the sensual glam aesthetic master that is Tom Ford but sadly that was the reality this season. You can’t always get it right I guess?

Takeaway: Play to your strengths Tom, oh and leather trousers are apparently on their way back in (eye roll emoji).

Calvin Klein:

Where to start?

Raf is having quite the moment at the helm of Calvin, shifting the brand from a minimalist, underwear and basics brand, to something more subversive. Last season, Simons explored the history of American fashion and Americana with western inspired shirts, cowboy boots, denim and leather boiler suits and 80’s power suiting. This season he continues the narrative on Americana by intertwining facets of American pop culture and art. I have to be completely honest the clothes themselves aren’t very interesting but the narrative is what elevates the collection to me. Excerpt from the show’s show notes: “…..Raf Simons, takes inspiration from cinema, from the dream factory of Hollywood and its depictions of both an American nightmare and the all-powerful American dream.” There was a section dedicated to American horror/thriller iconic films: look 45 paid homage to a 1950’s silhouette while also referencing the American terror narrative with heels that resembled the hockey mask worn by Jason Voorhees in “Friday the 13th“. There was a look that referenced the movie “Carrie”, and another look that referenced Kubrick’s sociopathic thriller “American Psycho”. Simons also explored American art with homages to several screen prints of Warhol’s work including a Dennis Hopper screen printed boiler suit, a shirt with Warhol’s 1963 screen printed “Tunafish Disaster” (a work based off of a Newsweek story Warhol saw in which two Detroit mothers died from poisoning from Tuna)—which shows how harmless consumerism can lead to accidental death, playing into Raf’s concept of American dream and terror. Genius!!!

I tend to identify Raf more so as an artist/art curator rather than a designer. Yes, his sneakers and namesake label menswear creates massive fashion fan-boying but it’s not mainly for the design, it’s more so for the intellectual thread within everything he “designs”. I often wonder if Raf is the right fit for Calvin and vice versa. Calvin, a brand founded on minimalism and basics and synonymous for its underwear and t-shirts, was always accessible in some form to Americans. It was void of pretense, and now Raf is using the brand as a mirror to American consumerism and Americana. Like do regular people buy Raf’s Calvin outside of ASAP Rocky and Ashton Sanders? Idk. But one thing I do know is that Raf has reinvigorated the brand and etched it out as a marquee show during NYFW.

Takeaway: Art and fashion are interchangeable, Americana and western wear we’ll be seeing next.

Written by: Fashion Critic, Shelton Boyd

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